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Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Petit Petois - Interview with Designer Viviana Gabeiras

I was very fortunate to meet talented Venezuelan born designer Viviana Gabeiras who showed me her line Petit Petois when she was in New York.

I read that you grew up in Venezuela and that your stepmother taught you how to sew.  How else has your heritage influenced you?

I was born in Venezuela but came to the states many years ago.  I came to New York and studied at Parsons.  Even though I went back to my country, an American company brought me back.  I worked for many companies before I launched my own line.

You have to know a little bit of Venezuela to understand that we are very influenced by Europeans.  We opened the doors to Europeans in World War II.  We also had a lot of the American influence because of the oil.   My mother was a big celebrity in Venezuela. She's retired now, but and I was influenced by all the dressing for TV.  And my stepmom was taught me more about the sewing and craft.


Can you tell me more about this beautiful dress?

This dress is a brand new dress.  It has been the talk of town, so we can not take it out of line yet!  Everyone wants to have one.  We do it in different colors. People are getting married in it in white or antique beige!  We do it with flowers on the belt or without the belt.  It comes with a bathing suit and covers everything and it gives you that illusion that you are safe.  Or we can do it with a slip if they don't want the body suit. This is all custom made.  The store usually have them in 2 or 3 different colors.

 Everything is very soft on the body - most of our dresses. We also do prints and a lot of textures.  We have another dress which is mesh with ripped cotton stretched out on top of the mesh. We do different variations in the mesh and weight.  We are now not only keeping our mesh, but also bringing new qualities with knits and doing more luxury knits.  People like what we do, but they want me to offer it in different fabrication. We introduced new fabrications in 2011 and everybody is loving everything.  We're very happy with our turnaround.





You're well know for using mesh.  Why do you like mesh so much?

I was trying to find a fabric that was not lycra or spandex. I did not like the look of spandex, which is shiny. It wasn't looking sophisticated enough.  I still wanted to work  with a stretchy knit, that you could do different things with, yet make it look sophisticated and more high end.  That's when I started my search.  I would do different things to see how it behaved until I conquered it and could do anything I wanted with it.  Two years later Jean Paul Gaultier started working with mesh.  Not many designers work with it.  Very very few.  It's a difficult fabric to work with it.  But once you conquer it, it's very noble.  For me, it has given me too much.  I'm very grateful to work with mesh. And it's also washable.  You can travel with it.  If you're traveling and going to a big event, you don't need to carry a big suitcase.  You can put it in your suitcase and let it hang out and you're ready to go.

What kind of women wear your clothes?

Women today are conquering and doing so many things.  They are doing business, taking care of children, running back and forth.  Also jobs are carried with you all the time.  Me.  I'm traveling a lot.  I understand where women are coming from and what they need.  Women aren't staying in one place.  I'm trying to give them that.


I do have a sophisticated, trendy looks, but I also give safe, classy looks.  I give to my ladies, classic, ageless, looks.  It's timeless.  People are buying more and more because it lasts forever. You can wash it and wash it and it remains the same. It has good quality and can be worn in different ways.  I think that's important today.  They can wear differently. We do basics, long sleeve, t shirts. For example, you can layer this like a jumper, with a leather jacket.  You can wear it in the day at the office or meetings for work.  At night, wear it with beautiful sandals or high heels and go out.  That's what my clients are loving it about the line.  They can dress it up, dress it down, be young and high end.  Especially high end stores - they have to make sure more customers are happy - not just one specifically.










What's the influence for the fall line?
It's very European influenced. That's my fusion.  My experience living here in America, where sportswear is strong.  Europeans love American Sportswear.  Americans like the girly French chic. What I did is marry both of them.  This is the right combination.  That is how I achieved the dressing up and dressing down. I took the whole French type of lifestyle and transferred to American.  I've always done that but never in such a strong way.  I took it to another level and it exploded.  It looks very European, but if you take it one by one you see how easy and casual it is- which is very American.


I was surprised by the acceptance.  I was so pleased with the turnaround of the collection.   The colors are very neutral..  You can mix it around. We're going to do different mesh.


How much do your dresses retail?
Dresses retail around $200 - $220.  Some store price it at $195 to keep it in a more accessible price points .  Keep in mind that the line is all made in the USA.  We own our own plants.  It's a vertical way of doing business.  Quality control is all in one place, even though it's made in USA.  It's a way of giving back to the customers.
 

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Designers Emerge Pop Up

I stopped by AM Studios art gallery in midtown yesterday for the Designers Emerge pop-up.   Designers Emerge is a nonprofit that supports NYC indie labels by providing them with a place to showcase their products.  There were lots of pretty dresses by H Fredriksson, airbrushed tees by Shawndra Lovechi for $35, chic and detailed designs from Sani & Son, feminine looks from T. Tandon, urban sophisticated dresses and tops from Sally Tseng. There were also unique braided tops from Bhon (I used their pieces for a photoshoot last year - Check out the pics here!)

409 39th St. @9th Avenue. Sat and Sunday 11am - 7pm (May 7, 8, 14, 15)


Christine Yoon, one of the designers for Bhon.  Love their unique braided tops!

Designer Tina Tandon holding one oh her designs, T. Tandon.

Designer Sally Tseng wearing her design (love the gold blazer)

Beautiful silk top from Sani & Son, $45

Printed Silk/wool blend scarves from Sani & Son's Distinkt line, $49
T Shirts from Shawndra Lovechi for $35

Friday, April 15, 2011

Kleonikh Collection - Interview with designer Nikki Demoneris

I recently talked to super nice Nikki DeMoneris, designer and founder of Kleonikh, about her newest collection of contemporary and beautifully draped pieces.

What was your inspiration for this collection?

For this collection, I had been inspired by fish and the movement of fish.  One of the prints, the blush pink print is actually inspired by a translucent kind of fish with see through skin, which is really interesting because it was kind of veiny.  Obviously I didn't take it directly from the fish. That was the inspiration behind that print, gruesome but very pretty. I don't use a lot of pink, but I felt it was successful for that print.

I used other aspects of the fish, especially the length and fluidity of the tail of the eel.  It's pretty gruesome - it's black and has a big thick blown up head and a very thin tail - very ghastly and crazy.  That was very inspirational, because of the way it moved.  There's a Shirt dress - the Boga dress - the proportioning and the bubble- it's actually draped this way and sewn this way - you don't need the belt to actually hold it up.

The whole process was very fluid and translucent.  I used a lot of chiffon.  Even the process of how they move was inspiring.   It wasn't just looking at a picture of the fish.  The way they moved influenced the whole draping proccess.  Each piece was done separately and took a lot of time.  Moving forward, it's definitely something I'd love to continueI do a lot of the draping and patterning.  I love to focus on each piece.

Has your Greek background influenced you?
A lot of people say it's very Greek, but I don't really utilize it on focus on it. I definitely feel as though my mother instilled certain aspects of fashion in me.  Not necessarily because she's Greek.  She loves clothing and it's very important to her. She always told me to buy pieces that last longer.  Not the fast fashion. Spending a pretty penny, but knowing that you'll be wearing it forever.  Not necessarily going into ancient Greek aesthetic, although I really enjoy draping so maybe it's in there!

In terms of designers, who would you say are your influences?

I like so many designers for many reasons.  They have their own techniques. Martin Margiela, although he has a much cleaner aesthetic. There's Rick Owens. I love Italian designers, Armani tailoring.  Everybody has their own thing that they're amazing at and I don't focus on one designer. I respect every designer.  

If you could one to collaborate with someone, who would you want to work with?  
Philip Lim, Proenza Schouler. I love Tom Scott, Richard Chai.  A lot of designers that I respect and acknowledge.


Where would you like your line to be in the next couple of years?

Hopefully, within 2-3 years we will open up a store, maybe in downtown Brooklyn.  I want to keep the store custom and small, and really focus on my customer. I want them to feel special wearing it. I want to  be able to control every aspect. I want to do the draping. I don't want to be popping out collection after collection without focusing.  In other words, I don't want to lose the interest.


Where are you selling?
I sell on online and in Englewood New Jersey, Closet 07631 for Her.  It's a very interesting store. The owner has a very nice perspective, she's great! She's very into the art of fashion.  She has a little bit of children's clothing,jewelry, accessories, scarves, a little bit of everything, but it really focuses on each designer's talent.  I love that store. I feel like the neighborhood, Englewood,speaks to my customer's lifestyle. I never thought imagined that I would be in New Jersey, but it works out.  My customers are very contemporary, casual.  You would picture them in the Lower East Side too.

The clothes are made well for working women and they can  go from day to night.  It's about keeping pieces, throwing on a jacket, and making them a little more dressy, wearing it out to dinner or to a lounge.

Kleonikh is a sponsor for the Carnival of Love Foundation.  Could you tell us more of this charity?

I'm part of the Carnival of Love Foundation. It's so important to me because the autistic children really need the help. I will be donating 2 pieces from the Kleonikh line for a raffle for their next event. All the proceeds from the event will be put into donating iPads to certain non-profit organizations in the NY metro area which have educational programs in place for children with autism. A typical Program costs 2-3k, when you could buy $400 Ipad with programs to work for each child's need and development.  We're having an event on April 29th 2011 at Central Bar and Lounge in Astoria, Queens. We're also doing love print movement, the idea of really leaving your mark on this world - what's the shape of your love is the slogan. It should be a lot fun.  We're doing a full moon theme! See link for details.




Tuesday, April 12, 2011

LAMB Show

Jakub Kollárik, a super nice photographer, who I met at L.A.M.B's photographer's pit this past fashion week, was kind enough to provide the fabulous photo of Gwen Stefani and her son for this blog entry.  He also gently nudged me to post a blog soon about L.A.M.B before the next Fashion Week sneaks up upon us. So please forgive me for not posting this sooner!  This was my 2nd L.A.M.B show, but the first one was a madhouse where I couldn't see past the crowd in front of me.  This season's show made up for my priorexperience because I felt like I saw 4 shows. Each segment was separated by horn blasts and a huge screen showing different scenes.  There was an abundance of patterns: tartan, checkered, stripes, animal print in varied styles and silhouettes.  The long dress with tartan print pair with tartan jacket in grey and burgundy was one of my favorite looks.  The outfit reminded me of the charm of catholic school girl uniforms but edgier and more mature.  The show began and ended with Gwen Stefani doppelgängers with beehives.   L.A.M.B designs, like Gwen Stefani, is the epitome of a grown-up rocker glam.




















Allegri Spring/Summer Presentation

I was recently invited to view the new Allegri collection and was impressed with the quality and variety of style offerings.  Allegri is an Italian outerwear company with a 40 year history that is known for their chic raincoats.  A popular feature for coats is the ability to wear the coats in multiple ways. Some men's sport jackets had an inner lining that could be attached for a more casual look. Some coats were reversible, and one coat could even be worn four ways- turning into 2 vests or 2 coats.   The coat materials were very lightweight but with enough heft to make them durable.  I'm a fan of their raincoat that could be stored in a pouch.  I was surprised because it did not look like the usual flimsy ones that would tear after a few rainy days.  I also appreciated their sleek cashmere coats that were treated to be water resistant.  Allegri coats are available in major department stores in New York.  With rainy spring days coming, it seems like a worthy investment!



Men's coats - loved the material




4 coats in 1!



Pretty blue hue!

This is actually wool!


Afingo Fashion Forum 2011

I recently attended the 2011 Afingo Fashion Form held at FIT in New York City.  The conversations were really educational and brought up many important questions about the world of fashion. Here are a few quotes and interesting points from the forum.

Sustainability & Philanthropy Forum-  About 20% of industrial water pollution comes from textile dye and 16% of pesticide from cotton production.  We don't know how much time or effort it'll take to reduce pollution, but we can begin by asking big players who have the largest footprint and impact (e.g. Walmart, Payless, Gap) to rethink their production process.   Designers Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra talked about their parternship with eco dye company Air Dye.  Their textile dyeing technique helped Costello Tagliapietra save gallons of water per dress with minimal affect on cost and time of production.  Consumers need to be re-educated to buy vintage and to treat our purchases as long term investments and wear items as long as possible. Is the term "green" becoming overused and even negativ?   Fashion specialists on the panel encouraged designers to focus on design first and continue using eco-friendly processes so that eco-friendly/green will become a norm rather than a special label for niche.

Ready to Launch your Line -  Randi Packard, (Fashion Market Director, RealSimple.com), Steven Cox + Daniel Silver (Co-founders, Duckie Brown), Adam Lippes (designer), Bibhu Mohapatra (Designer)
Designers talked about how they started their lines, got funding and difficulties faced.  The rules for launching your line?   The overwhelming consensus from the designers was to be passionate and persistent.  Of course talent and knowing your raft is integral, but some talented designers are not successful and vice versa.  Steven Cox and Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown said it took them ten years to really get their name to the level that they wanted.  Adam Lippes, Bibhu Mohapatra, Daniel Silver had all worked for other designers before starting their own lines.  Steven Cox, however was a TV producer with no apparel background.  Miguelina Gambaccini of Miguelina had no prior experience in fashion before starting her line.


 Jill Fehrenbacher (Founder Inhabitat.com), Jeffrey Costello, and Robert Tagliapietra (Designers, Costello Tagliapietra)

Julie Gilhart, Summer Rayne Oakes (Eco-Model, Source4style.com, Lisa Salzer (Lulufrost.com)

Summer Rayne Oakes, Lisa Salzer
Iconic Wisdon - Interviewer Nick Axelrod with designer, Cynthia Rowley
Iconic Wisdom - Nick Axelrod interviewed designer Cynthia Rowley.  Cynthia Rowley's prolific career began with a fortuitous encounter in the Chicago Subway when she was an art student in Chicago. A woman approached her, asked about the jacket she was wearing, and wanted to see the rest of her collection.  Cynthia rushed to sew her first collection over the weekend and that was the start of her design empire.  Cynthia talked about her all encompassing desire to design.   "I just want to make everything, as much as possible".   Her love for design in general has led to outside-the-box collaborations with companies like Johnson and Johnson to create a Cynthia Crowley bandaid line and Roxie for wetsuits. Cynthia also is very open to new ideas and started an initiative in her company called "Pretty Penny" which gives her staff the opportunity to present an idea for a new business and the one which is voted most likely to succeed gets funded.

L to R: Randi Packard, (Fashion Market Director, RealSimple.com), Steven Cox + Daniel Silver (Co-founders, Duckie Brown), Adam Lippes (designer), Bibhu Mohapatra (Designer)

Christene Barberich, Editor-in-chief, Refinery29, Pam Bristow (Creative Consultant), Elizabeht Grinspan (Racked NY), Keith Pollock (Elle.com, Patrick Bradbury (Bradbury Lewis), Michele Cerwin (HL Group)
Social Media & Publicity - Twitter, Blogger - Blogs are mainstream now.  Know your niche. Create complimentary content.
'PR is not PR anymore, it's branding, social media."
Pam Bristow  - Fashion brands need to be their own press, have their own message. 360 communications plan. Creating content. You're almost your own magazine. Thinking about film, music. e.g. opeing ceremony - they're not only doing fashion - Tron, Where the wild things are, It's so integral to what people are looking for now.
What are the biggest mistakes in social media/PR?  Blasted emails that are not personalized and in boldface. Product or brand has no connection to my brand.  "I respond to almost email" says  Keith Pollock of Elle".However you ned to tailor it to Elle blog. "There has to be personal connection or I won't respond."